How I Planned 14 Days in Scotland Without Joining a Tour
READING
Strangers in the Villa - Yes! This is the type of book I have been needing and craving! Full of suspense and drama and questions! I really enjoyed reading this one, despite the lower than I’d like reviews on Goodreads
Another shocking story I adored? Room 706. Yes, this one also has very low reviews (Only a 3.4 on Goodreads), and I can see why (I think) It is about adultery, infidelity, and things that can and are highly triggering. I am drawn to these types of stories, I think I like to get inside the adulterous head and understand the reasons behind the cheating. This book does NOT clarify that , which can be very daunting and infuriating. The lack of closure or understanding. But I loved it and enjoyed the thriller sense of it (It is not really a thriller in my opinion, but has the pace) So if this is not for you, move on ;)
Two of my bookish friends finally read “Yesteryear” and I was so happy to catch up with them to get their thoughts! One of my friends did not love it, but appreciated it. The other summed it up perfectly “I hated it AND gave it 5 stars!”
I’m making my way through “Heather” and absolutely loving it! I love all the Pinelands and New Jersey references! And today I also just started The Black House per a friend's recommendation to prepare me for my upcoming Scotland trip. It is dreamy, so atmospheric and unputdownable!
TRAVEL MUSINGS
Every time I mention my upcoming Scotland trip, someone asks the same question:
"Did you book a tour?"
The answer is no.
While tours work well for many travelers, I prefer building my own itinerary. It allows me to travel at my own pace, linger in bookstores and cafés, spend an extra hour on a coastal walk, and create a trip that feels personal rather than rushed.
Here's exactly how I planned 14 days in Scotland on my own.
Step 1: Start With What You Want Most
Whenever I begin planning a trip, I don't start with cities. I start with experiences.
Before I book a flight, reserve a hotel, or map out a route, I ask myself a simple question:
What do I want to feel when I'm there?
For Scotland, I knew I wanted to experience a little bit of everything. I wanted the energy and history of the city, the dramatic beauty of the Highlands, and the rugged coastline that has been calling to me for years.
Nature was one of my biggest priorities. I am happiest outside, whether that means a long walk along the coast, a quiet hike through the hills, or spotting wildlife along the way. I have always been drawn to craggy shorelines, rocky cliffs, wide open landscapes, and places that feel slightly removed from the crowds.
As a solo female traveler, safety is also a major consideration. Before making any decisions, I spend time researching specific towns, neighborhoods, and accommodations. I read reviews, study maps, and learn about the areas I will be visiting so I can feel comfortable and confident once I arrive.
I also know myself well enough to recognize what consistently brings me joy when I travel. I love wandering through independent bookstores, touring distilleries to learn how things are made, exploring castles, taking scenic ferry rides, and discovering places that feel unique and unexpected. If something is a little unusual or off the beaten path, I am usually interested.
Just as important, I spend time researching local customs and etiquette. One of the things I love most about travel is experiencing another culture, and I want to do that respectfully. Understanding local expectations, traditions, and social norms helps me become a better traveler and allows me to connect more meaningfully with the places I visit.
Once I have a clear picture of the experiences I am looking for, planning the route becomes much easier. Instead of choosing destinations first and hoping they fit, I build an itinerary around the things that matter most to me.
For this trip, this is what I wanted
Dramatic coastlines and rocky, craggy landscapes
Long walks, scenic hikes, and time in nature
Wildlife and opportunities to observe animals
A mix of cities, countryside, and small villages
Safe destinations and accommodations for solo female travelers
Independent bookstores and literary landmarks
Distilleries, breweries, and behind-the-scenes tours
Castles, historic sites, and local history
Ferry rides and scenic transportation experiences
Off-the-beaten-path destinations with fewer crowds
Unique experiences that feel authentic to the region
Walkable towns and neighborhoods
Opportunities to slow down rather than rush from sight to sight
Local cafés, pubs, and places where I can observe daily life
Respectful travel that honors local customs and culture
Fewer hotel changes and less time spent packing and unpacking
Step 2: Build Your Route
Once I know what I want from a trip, I can begin building the route.
For Scotland, I wanted a mix of city life, dramatic coastlines, remote landscapes, history, and plenty of opportunities to get outside and walk. I also wanted to avoid spending half my vacation packing, unpacking, and constantly moving from place to place.
Here's the framework I created:
Edinburgh (3 Nights)
My introduction to Scotland.
I'm looking forward to wandering historic streets, browsing independent bookstores, exploring the city's architecture, walking the Royal Mile, and soaking up the atmosphere of Scotland's capital.
I'm also considering a day trip to hike the Seven Sisters coastal path in England. While it would make for a long day, the dramatic chalk cliffs, rugged coastline, and sweeping sea views are exactly the type of landscape that draws me in. If you've followed my travels for any length of time, you know I can't resist a craggy coastline and a long walk with a spectacular view.
After an overnight flight, Edinburgh also gives me time to adjust before picking up a rental car and heading into the countryside.
Speyside (2 Nights)
Scotland's whisky country.
This stop allows me to slow down, tour distilleries, enjoy the countryside, and experience a quieter side of Scotland. One of the experiences I am most excited about is a guided walking distillery tour that combines two of my favorite things: walking and whisky.
The tour connects several distilleries on foot, allowing participants to experience the landscape between destinations rather than simply driving from one tasting room to the next. It perfectly reflects how I like to travel by combining movement, learning, and local culture into a single experience.
I also love seeing how things work, so visiting distilleries is just as much about the process, history, and craftsmanship as it is about the tasting itself.
Ullapool (1 Night)
A scenic stop along the route north.
For me, Ullapool is about the journey as much as the destination. It's a chance to experience a charming harbor town, enjoy coastal views, stretch my legs after a day of driving, and prepare for the next stage of the adventure.
Isle of Harris & Lewis (3 Nights)
The destination I am most excited about.
Remote beaches, dramatic coastlines, wildlife, ferry rides, long walks, and landscapes that look completely different from anything I have experienced before. This is exactly the type of place that inspires me to travel.
I intentionally scheduled several nights here because I don't want to rush through it. I want time to wander, explore, take scenic drives, discover hidden beaches, and simply experience life on the islands.
West Coast & Skye Area
A chance to experience some of Scotland's most iconic scenery.
Castles, mountains, coastal drives, viewpoints, and endless opportunities to pull over and take in the landscape. While I have a rough plan, this portion of the trip is intentionally flexible because I know there will be viewpoints, walks, and small villages I won't discover until I'm there.
Applecross & Glencoe
For the scenery.
The winding roads, dramatic mountains, rugged landscapes, and outdoor opportunities are exactly what I pictured when I started dreaming about Scotland. These are the places where I expect to spend a lot of time outside, walking, hiking, and stopping whenever something catches my eye.
I am especially excited about the freedom of having a car and being able to pull over whenever I see a viewpoint, trailhead, waterfall, or village that looks interesting.
Return to Edinburgh
One final evening before heading home.
A chance to reflect on the trip, revisit a favorite spot, enjoy one last Scottish meal, and soak up the atmosphere before returning home.
Leave Room for the Unexpected
One mistake I see many travelers make is scheduling every minute of every day.
I prefer to build a framework rather than an hour-by-hour itinerary.
Some of my favorite travel memories have come from conversations with locals, recommendations from other travelers, or places I stumbled upon accidentally. I often browse Meetup groups, local events, community calendars, or chat with other solo travelers to see what they recommend. Many of the best bookstores, cafés, walking trails, viewpoints, and hidden gems I've discovered have come through word of mouth rather than a guidebook.
That's why I intentionally leave open space in my itinerary.
I want the freedom to follow a recommendation, take a detour, linger over lunch, take an unexpected walk, or spend an extra hour somewhere that feels special.
Why I Book Accommodations in Advance
Many travelers prefer complete spontaneity and book lodging as they go.
For me, accommodations are one area where I like to plan ahead.
As a solo female traveler, having a safe, clean, comfortable place to stay is a priority. I don't want to spend my evenings searching for a room, worrying about availability, or hoping I find something that feels right.
Booking accommodations in advance provides peace of mind, creates a rough framework for the trip, and helps me understand how far I need to travel each day.
The beauty of a road trip like this is that the days in between remain flexible. I can stop at a scenic overlook, pull into a village that wasn't on my radar, explore a castle I discover along the way, or take a different road simply because it looks interesting.
Sometimes the best part of a trip isn't the destination at all.
It's everything you discover between destinations.
Step 3: Figure Out Transportation
Once I had my route mapped out, it was time to figure out how I was actually going to get from place to place.
Start With the Flight
Before I could plan distilleries, ferries, hikes, or accommodations, I had to get myself to Scotland.
Like many travelers, I compared flights from several different airports. I could have saved a few hundred dollars by driving farther and departing from another airport, but ultimately I chose convenience over the lowest price.
As a solo traveler, especially for an international trip, I place a high value on reducing stress whenever possible. Having a shorter drive to the airport, easier parking options, and a more convenient departure location felt worth the additional cost.
Travel isn't always about finding the cheapest option. Sometimes it's about finding the option that makes the entire experience smoother and more enjoyable.
Check Your Documents Early
Booking a flight is also the perfect time to make sure all of your travel documents are in order.
Before every international trip, I check:
Passport expiration date
Entry requirements
Visa requirements, if applicable
Health advisories and vaccine recommendations
Airline baggage policies
Transportation options upon arrival
I also made sure my Global Entry account was active and that all of my information was up to date.
These aren't the glamorous parts of travel planning, but they are incredibly important. Passport renewals, appointments, and travel authorizations can take longer than expected, so I always recommend checking these items well in advance.
Deciding on a Rental Car
As I researched Scotland, it became clear that many of the places I was most excited about were spread throughout the country.
While Scotland has excellent public transportation in many areas, I knew I wanted the freedom to explore small villages, scenic viewpoints, hidden beaches, hiking trails, and unexpected discoveries along the way.
A rental car was an easy decision.
That said, I didn't want a car for the entire trip.
I love exploring cities on foot, and Edinburgh is incredibly walkable. Between the historic streets, bookstores, restaurants, and attractions, I knew I would spend most of my time walking during those first few days.
Rather than paying for parking and navigating city traffic, I chose to remain car-free in Edinburgh and pick up my rental car when I was ready to head into the Highlands.
This gives me the best of both worlds: a walkable city experience followed by the flexibility of a road trip.
Don't Forget About Ferries
One thing I learned quickly during the planning process is that some transportation requires advance planning.
Visiting the Isle of Harris and Lewis has been one of my top priorities from the very beginning. To get there, I needed a ferry reservation for both myself and my rental car.
Many travelers love the idea of arriving and figuring things out as they go. While that approach can work for some trips, I personally think it's important to identify the experiences that matter most and secure those first.
I'm glad I did.
When I booked my ferry crossing, there were very few vehicle spaces remaining, and I was fortunate to secure one of the last available reservations for my travel dates.
Had I waited, I could have easily missed out on one of the destinations I am most excited to visit.
This is one reason I don't recommend traveling with absolutely no plan. Flexibility is important, but so is protecting the experiences that matter most to you. I would have been incredibly disappointed to travel all the way to Scotland only to discover I couldn't reach one of the places I most wanted to see.
Plan the Essentials, Leave Room for Discovery
For me, transportation planning isn't about creating a rigid itinerary.
It's about creating a framework.
Once the flight is booked, the ferry is secured, and the rental car is reserved, I still have the freedom to stop at scenic overlooks, pull into an interesting village, explore a castle I discover along the way, or take a detour simply because a road looks beautiful.
In fact, I'm most excited about those moments.
The destinations may get me there, but the freedom to pull over, wander, explore, and discover something unexpected is what makes a road trip memorable.
The framework is planned.
Everything in between is where the adventure happens.
Step 4: Choosing My Accommodations
For me, accommodations are never just a place to sleep.
As a solo traveler, they become my home base, my safe space, and sometimes even part of the destination itself.
When planning Scotland, I wasn't looking for the cheapest room available, nor was I searching for five-star luxury. Like most things in travel, I was looking for a balance between comfort, convenience, character, and affordability.
After all, I'm a special education teacher. I still have a budget.
What I Look For
When researching accommodations, I consider:
Safety
Walkability
Parking availability
Character and atmosphere
Reviews
Location for day trips and sightseeing
Comfortable common spaces
Value for the money
As a solo female traveler, safety is always my first consideration. I want to feel comfortable walking to and from my hotel, returning after dinner, and settling in for the evening without worrying about my surroundings.
Location is also incredibly important. I would rather stay in a smaller room in a great location than a larger room miles away from everything I want to see.
Why I Love Boutique Hotels
Over the years, I've discovered that boutique hotels are often my sweet spot.
They're typically smaller, cozier, and more personal than large chain hotels. Many offer thoughtful amenities, unique design, and a sense of place that reflects the destination.
Some travelers want the newest, most modern hotel in town.
I tend to go in the opposite direction.
Give me a historic building, a cozy library, a crackling fireplace, shelves lined with books, and a dark, moody cocktail bar, and I'm happy.
I love accommodations that feel warm and lived-in.
Dark woods.
Comfortable reading chairs.
Vintage details.
A lounge where I can enjoy a cocktail and a book after a day of exploring.
Those details matter to me because they become part of the travel experience.
My Research Process
Finding the right accommodations takes time.
A lot of time.
I read professional reviews, browse travel magazines, compare hotel websites, study maps, and spend far too much time reading online reviews.
Some of my favorite resources include:
Oyster Hotel Reviews
Condé Nast Traveler
Reddit travel forums
Google reviews
Hotel websites
While publications like Condé Nast often feature luxury properties, I still find them useful. They can introduce me to hotels I might not otherwise discover, and occasionally I've found surprisingly good deals at places I assumed would be out of my budget.
I also browse travel forums and Facebook groups, although that experience can be hit or miss.
In preparation for Scotland, I joined several Scotland travel groups hoping to gather recommendations from locals and experienced travelers. Unfortunately, I found many of the discussions surprisingly snarky. I understand that residents grow tired of answering the same questions repeatedly, but I wasn't finding much helpful information, so I eventually left the groups and continued my research elsewhere.
The Reality of Planning
One thing many travel articles leave out is how many accommodations never make the final cut.
For every hotel I book, there are often ten or twenty others that I considered first.
Some were too expensive.
Some had poor reviews.
Some were in the wrong location.
Some simply didn't feel like me.
Choosing accommodations is rarely a quick decision. It's often a process of comparing options, reading reviews, studying maps, and imagining what it would actually feel like to return there after a long day of exploring.
For me, that's time well spent.
A great hotel won't make a trip, but the wrong hotel can certainly impact one.
When I finally find a place that feels safe, comfortable, well-located, and full of character, I know I've found the right fit
Step 5: Budgeting and Staying Organized
One of the most common questions I receive about travel is:
"How much does it cost?"
The honest answer is that it depends.
Your travel style, accommodations, activities, departure airport, dining preferences, and time of year can dramatically affect the overall cost of a trip.
Rather than provide a generic estimate that may not apply to your travels, I prefer to track my expenses in a detailed planning spreadsheet.
For this Scotland trip, I created a Google Sheet to organize:
Flights
Accommodations
Rental car
Ferries
Tours and activities
Estimated expenses
Reservation confirmations
Important links
Daily itinerary notes
Having everything in one place allows me to see where my money is going, identify areas where I can save, and avoid unpleasant surprises later.
It also helps me make informed decisions throughout the planning process. For example, I may choose a slightly more expensive hotel if it saves me money on transportation, or spend more on a unique experience while cutting back elsewhere.
My Budgeting Philosophy
I don't travel on the absolute cheapest budget possible.
I also don't believe every trip needs to be luxurious.
Instead, I focus on spending money on the things that matter most to me.
For this trip, those priorities include:
Safe and comfortable accommodations
Unique experiences
Distilleries and tours
Scenic transportation experiences such as ferries
Convenient flight options
The flexibility to stop, explore, and enjoy the journey
I am often willing to spend a little more on experiences that will make the trip easier, more enjoyable, or more memorable.
My Scotland Planning Spreadsheet
If you're interested in seeing exactly how I organized this trip, including reservations, routing, lodging, transportation, and planning notes, you can view my Scotland planning spreadsheet here:
***I can not take credit for this amazing planner, I do not recall where I picked it up, but it is fabulous!
Feel free to make a copy and adapt it for your own travels.
Organization may not be the most exciting part of travel planning, but it gives me the confidence to enjoy the adventure once I arrive.
Over the next six weeks, I'll be sharing pieces of the planning process, destination research, books I'm reading before the trip, and lessons learned from building an itinerary from scratch. If you've ever dreamed of visiting Scotland on your own, I hope you'll follow along.
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